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Thanks for the thoughts.
I did get a 2-3-3 code (lean/rich at idle) at one point, but that's been triggering a Check-engine light when I'm on the highway, nowhere near idle.
I also got a 1-3-3 (TPS switch faulty for idle) code, and a 3-1-2 (signal missing for knock-related enrichment).
These codes appear to be random, and -after the check-engine light comes on- I do have a high idle, but I used another half a can of starting fluid looking for leaks and got bupkis.
1) I Disconnected the knock sensor and there was no change. I think the issue is usually that it's loose on the head. The O2 sensor, I need to backprobe and check, but I can't understand it causing symptoms like this.
2) I'm sure it is, but I'll double check.
3) Yes, I have an in-tank pump, yes it's running. No, I haven't bypassed the pump relay because I have held my hand on it while it's acting up, and it never clicked once. About 6 years ago, I took it apart, reflowed the solder, and added more to each joint. I also drilled holes in its cover for ventilation.
I almost wish it would just go ahead and die all the way so I could track down the problem. Or at least show symptoms at idle.
This afternoon, I cleaned every fuse contact with a brush and a diamond file. The #1 fuse was kinda bad, but not terrible. A few others were bad too, but they all cleaned up nicely.
I was really hoping that would fix it.
My two thoughts are maybe there's something wrong with the coil (Does anyone know what the resistance readings should be?), maybe the distributor cap/rotor (only 15,000 miles old) are worn, damaged, or have oil in them (installed new distributor seals with the cap/rotor). Other than that, I am totally stumped.
I'm considering taking it into a shop, and I hate that idea.
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