|
Diagnosing a no start condition on my 1984 B230 non-turbo auto trans 242 with the Volvo/Chrysler ignition revealed the cheesy foil was broken. Reading posts here revealed that a swap to the Bosch distributor was not only cheaper, ($25 at the U-Pull vs around $100 for another V/C part with the crappy foil) and was an actual upgrade. So the swap was made with the connectors spliced to adapt the square Bosch end to the round V/C end. Result? Still no start. Test light reveals no power at coil. A jumper from battery "+" to coil still produces no start.
Lots of head scratching and reading of manual reveals this;
Recently bought car. Lots of scabbed in wiring in engine compartment; multiple wires of same color, crimp connectors, burned off insulation, etc. Car ran, but extremely rich and very rough. Timing check revealed huge advance, loose distributor hold down and cracked cap and distributor had been R&R'ed one tooth off. New white cap & rotor, but found damaged foil piece. This lead to swap to Bosch.
Somewhere in there, I checked and cleaned all electrical connections to coil, ground, etc, and probably stupidly, disconnected the connector at ECU which was dirty and corroded. Later reading of manual says DON"T DO THIS! as connector is one way use and once connector is removed, harness must be replaced. Is this true? I suspect this is why I have no start/no power condition.
Did I damage the harness beyond use by removing it from ECU to clean it?
So what to do now? Can't find these harnesses from IPD, etc. Go back to U-pick salvage yard and take one along with ECU? Buggered up, bodged underhood wiring wouldn't hurt replacing, but where to buy and how much?
|
