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These details help a lot more than just having a CEL light come on for us on the board.
You wrote, "I found out it is an emissions problem. The flame trap is clogged....again.... and now I need a new oxygen sensor, because it was shorted out from the oil and the clogged ventilation.
I assume you pulled the code (? Number) from the ECM or had a mechanic do it for you since you wrote "shorted out." Do "you know" if this was by oil contamination from the exhaust gases?
Did you mean with covered in oil from an over pressurized crankcase caused by a clogged flame trap.
Are you saying that "you know" that the outsides of the oxygen sensor needs "outside ventilation" for a reference point?
In some cases the O2 sensor can be cleaned "providing" the inside tip has not been "coked over" covering up the reaction materials. A Possibilty is, the shield stalled off that process?
The CEL can only tell.
Some oil degreasers like brake cleaner and the use of a clean burning flame of propane has worked on fairly new sensors before. Several factors are in play, so you don't throw it away, yet!
Is the smoke coming from the tail pipe at the rear of the car or oil burning off the exhaust header? To answer this might help you and us answer many future questions.
I ask these questions because I am trying to determine the condition of the engines cylinders.
How many miles are on this car
You could have stuck rings (by crud) or broken oil ring on one cylinder. Depends if you are using oil or leaking it?
Blowby or a leak? This is where the hunt here begins!
This last question needs answered.
My recommendation....
This can be checked Either way, by cleaning the engine or doing a compression test to start.
Both will be the most beneficial in the long run!
A bad rear seal at the back of the head/valve cover area can shrink. They will slip under pressure from a crankcase problem or all by itself with lots of age.
If a compression test turn out good and even across the cylinders, then you might have a really worn out valve guide or guide seal. Any excessive crankcase pressure would exacerbate that problem.
That would, in combination, prove some of the oil burning aggravation you mentioned vaguely.
IMHO, The flame trap should not get dirty again, that fast, no matter what kind of oil you use.
Going to expensive synthetic oil right away would not be a good idea until answers are found.
Those answers will solely depend on the hunt ahead.
Either the separator box below is packed solid, or its like Onkel Udo says, your vacuum port fitting or its line to it is plugged up.
Are you actually seeing that the upper trap strainer holes are getting refilled with crud?
I am really curious too!
Phil
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