|
Yes, inspect the adjustments and the FPR port passage to the throttle bore.
Make sure that the throttle stop screw is not holding the plate open the least little bit.
You want it to just stop the plate from jaming itself into the bore with the return spring pressure. That all its for. Not holding the plate open.
As you wiggle the plate, to just barely open it , you want to here that switch click.
If you have an ohmmeter or a powered test light check to make sure it makes or breaks its continuity. That way you set it and test it in one fell swoop.
The IAC can be cleaned with any weak solvent. Kerosene or denatured (wood) alcohol is better.
Just keep the ports pointing downward or the motor up to minimize any seeping past a seal towards the motor.
Same for the TPS since you have already cleaned it.
Was this a problem before or after the cleaning?
Do you have any idea how old or miles on the IAC?
The carbon brushes wear grooves into the commutator and can become electrically sticky too.
I like testing them with a nine volt battery as the car battery slams it back and forth. Under real conditions it just turns slightly back and forth in its mid range after starting.
I think it simulates the systems voltage and current during cranking or low battery/charging conditions.
I don't think the ECU sends that much current to it though it's transistors. The ECU does not compensate for wear inside the IAC.
If you use the cars battery use very light gauge wire to restrict current flow. Testing is a momentary touch to the terminals.
Have you listened for or to the "startup" idle rising and falling? No pedal should have to be used to ever start the car.
Listening, is a habit I have, to monitor the IAC condition.
Their very reliable and go past 80k easily. Up to 150k can even be expected but that depends on how much around town driving is done.
Sooner or later you end up changing it out. It's a very well used item.
Phil
|
