The message to which you are about to reply is shown first. GO TO REPLY FORM



 VIEW    REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

Engine died, no restart 200

The engine should start even with the AMM disconnected. Yes it will run rough in limp mode and be very hard to drive.

All of the below you can set up and in almost two motions. Some by Bumping the starter or with the plugs out and turning by hand for finer detail.

You need to pull the coil wire from the center of the distributor and hold that end about 1/4 inch from a shock tower bolt. If you can prop it close to the bolt with some weight you can then observe the spark jumping that gap from the drivers seat area.

This will confirm that the CPS is working through the ECU to the ICU via the system relay.

Just after cranking the engine, not before as that is a pre pump or priming mode of key position two turning on the ECU, you should hear the pumps running and then stopping.
THE RELAY OPENING FROM NO CRANK SIGNAL.
This confirms that the other side of the system relay is working the pumps. The system relay under the glove box is just important as the CPS.

If you hear the PUMPS then you need to pop the distributor cap and see if the rotor is turning when cranked. This proves the timing belt is intact. Next is, has it jumped on the sprockets?
You want to see the crankshaft mark to be aligned to the zero mark with the rotor parking under the number one wire location of the distributor cap.
Every other revolution the two front cam lobes under the oil cap should be pointing upwards but flat outwards away from each other. Like a sad rabbit!
There is a notch on the cam sprocket you can peek at with the timing cover loosened at the top and peeled back.

While you are in there, under the distributor cap, look for any defects of the rotor button and inside the cap.

After all this you should have wet plugs. This is because the ignition system is disabled. This means the injectors are opening.
If you had wet plugs, put the ignition system back together. It should run with spark, fuel and air with proper timing of the three.

Only thing left is "If" spark is not going out of the cap to the plugs or the air going in, you should have found a problem by now.

Phil






USERNAME
Use "claim to be" below if you don't want to log in.
PASSWORD
I don't have an account. Sign me up.
CLAIM TO BE
Use only if you don't want to login (post anonymously).
ENTER CAPTCHA CODE
This is required for posting anonymously.
OPTIONS notify by email
Available only to user accounts.
SUBJECT
MODEL/YEAR
MESSAGE

DICTIONARY
LABEL(S) +
IMAGE URL *
[IMAGE LIBRARY (UPLOAD/SELECT)]

* = Field is optional.

+ = Enter space delimited labels for this post. An example entry: 240 muffler


©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2022. All material except where indicated.


All participants agree to these terms.

Brickboard.com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo, Volvo Car Corporation, Volvo Cars of North America, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. Brickboard.com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site, similar to a club, and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found here.