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I started reading your post and realized that most of it was mine! Interesting way to keep yourself organized.
After seeing your responses, I noticed Trev29 posted the "timing belt" before you posted this last one. That tells me that he has a crystal ball. He knew you would be back!
I concur with his thinking that the timing belt is not aligned. It explains a lot of possibles!
You said it was put on two hundred miles ago but that does not mean it's was right or stayed right.
They also have to be tensioned after a short run-in time and after oil changes or 7,500 mi. intervals is a good maintenance practice.
When ever I change a belt I always rotate the engine around, by hand, several turns after every thing is locked down but not covered up. It's very easy to get the distributor sprocket off its mark and after the third and going into fourth turn of the crankshaft, the accumulation gets worse by one or more teeth worse but it stays there. This equates to several degrees of error.
The reason I pick on the distributor sprocket is because the alignment line is very low and cannot be seen straight on with the eyes.
I use a mirror so I can look straight down the groove with the dot and can see the raised boss of plastic beside it. It's black in the dark.
I put white paint into the dot on the sprocket. I shine a flashlight onto the mirror so it bends the light into that dark void.
Your earlier symptoms of backfiring is most likely the rotor is not centered under the wire in the cap. When the engine changes speed the timing is changed, by the two modules, by several degrees, which probably ends up off the width of the rotor button.
A misfire occurs but not a total miss every time but power loss will happen on enough cylinders.
When it was running it was probably lacking some smoothness but you were looking elsewhere, as it seems, from all the part changing.
A back fire term means it is an issue with valves open or unburned gases in the pipes. "Back" does not describe exhaust or intake explosions definitively.
The above can cause both if the cam was severely out of time. Not starting at all means the cam can be now way off with the crankshaft.
You have spark and most likely fuel but it's not together.
Sorry about the hearing difficulty along with tinnitus.
The main pump sounds can be hear from under the drivers side back seat outside the the car as a whine. You might be able to feel the bracket hanger for some vibration though!
The in-tank pump is very hard to hear. Some people take a short garden hose and stuff it into the gas filler neck and listen. You might be able to hear it by laying under the tank but very close to it with your ear. It's a very small feed pump only! A weak hum is all.
CleanFlametrap.com has a post that shows how to run the pumps by jumping the sides of 4 & 6 fuses in the fuse panel by the door. You do it together or separately. I suggest you search for details for each early or late model year car.
Bypassing the relay above, runs the pumps only. To close the relay, that can be done manually.
You have to take the cover off the relay and wrap it with a rubber band or a shoe lace, if you are desperate, like stuck on the highway with a bad relay.
This brings on the injection system so the car will run. This will run down the battery if left that way!
It is not safe either, if you end up in an accident, as the pumps will not shut off! Same for the jumper wires mentioned earlier!
THESE ARE ONLY TESTING AND EMERGENCY METHODS!
Hope this helps get you on the road soon!
Phil
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