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First of all, most of the pics on photobucket are older pics, as far back as 2006.
The boots on the starter are original. I did have to use an aftermarket post terminal on the positive cable. I have no boot for it, but currently the postitive terminal is covered in corrision preventing red coating and stainless fasteners. I suppose a boot, for the positive terminal would be a good modification. I could not find such a boot earlier at the autoparts store, I should search on the net for one. Thanks for pointing that out.
I have an EDIS style dual coil now. There is no + or - .
The MS "stuff" is on the other side of the firewall away from the heat of the exhaust, as is the WB02 sensor equipment. What you might be referring to MS relay board, which is suitable for use in the engine bay. It is a convenient point to manage the connections of MS input and output. The relay board actually is not placed directly over the red hot exhaust. I have seen my exhaust headers red only one time about 35 years ago when I ran it hard one night with high octane airplane fuel. That was a sight.
The 1971 142E originally had the FPR located on the firewall in the same location I now have my aftermarket FPR with gauge, with its vacuum hose. I liked the original FPR location, avoiding the vibrations found with the fuel rail mounted FPR found on the 72-73 140s. The vacuum hose management also used with MS is easier to manage in this location as well. I am not sure why Volvo engineers selected this firewall location for the FPR, but it works for me. The rubber fuel line routing and metal fuel lines are all original. The metal fuel lines are not new, and so yes they must be cad plated, thanks for the compliment. You see, since 1976 I have kept it clean. I use new fuel line tie down clamps from Volvo, they are even marked with "Sweden". The only real modification made to the fuel line system from stock is that I have eliminated the charcoal fuel vapor canister return line that ran parallel with the two fuel lines you see. So I would guess from your questions you disagree with the original Volvo fuel system design found on my car.
I am using the PWM air valve to give me some extra air when the motor is cold, my motor is simple without AC. The motor starts like new without it during the summer but during the colder months my starting is impaired without this device. This modification is recommended by MS to give "new car" starting during cold weather.
My headers suck, they are 4 to 1. I bought those before I knew better. I have the original 4-2-1 exhaust which I am going to clean up, have an WB02 bung installed and use again when I have another 73 B20E head flowed. I'll let my mechanic/wizard make the call about matching up the two.
I do not have boots on my alternator connection. I run an ACDelco 3 wire 100 amp. There is only one post connection, and the other two wires are plugged into the alternator itself. I shield my harness with reflective covering. I think the 4 to 1 headers put too much heat on the alternator and its harness. I think my original 4-2-1 exhaust will perform better, and fit better. Mounting the B20E intake with the IPD 4-1 headers is difficult as well.
Thanks for your interest and comments.
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Antique Swedish Steel 71 142E color V#102
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