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"Is a better quick test to check the TPS to do is with KOEO turn the throttle and listen for the clicking noise? Instead of with engine on."
Clicking is a rough-and-ready test but checking to see if switch is actually opening or closing electrically is a real test. Art test that it not only is opening and closing electrically but passing that electricity all the way to the ECU is even better!
"I did not replace the TPS because I read it needed to be calibrated when installed and I do not have diagnostic scanner."
It is a simple switch...not like "modern" cars.
"My daughter drove the car this evening and it stalled out a block away. she was able to pull over to a side road sit a while the car restarted and drove fine, she came back and took my 2005-S40 instead."
What was it doing when it stalled one block away?
"I went out and restarted car and it started and idled fine. Seems like it happens at a cold start only."
Intermittent can be challenging but is this a one instance of diagnosis. Did you have the same experience more than one...idles and stalls only on cold start then a few minutes later all is well?
Your code leans toward an intermittent AMM or the infamous pin pushed back in the AMM connector. This bit of information would have been useful at the start. With the key off, remove the connector and just look at the end. On whole will be empty but the rest need show nice clean "tin" that way up at the front of the connector.
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