The message to which you are about to reply is shown first. GO TO REPLY FORM



 VIEW    REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

strange electrical problem 200 1993

Hi Volvo426,

I forgot to mention in my ever ongoing reply to you.

And sorry that was so long.

I was hopped up on the strong earl grey tea with the hunny and milk again.

Forgot to mention wire harness damage at the doors ... though the hinge-action portion where the wire harness routs through the rubber bellow between the door and the unibody through or around them bellows. Yet yours is a 1993, so unless someone dressed extra cabling improperly through that cable routing rubber bellows thingy between the driver door and the unibody, may not be a problem. On maybe 1980 and 1988-1989, the environmentally-friendly deteriorating wire harness insulation could more likely be a problem.

You did say the power windows did not work. at two times when you were at the same location. So, you say windows, plural (more than one), so I'll guess the driver side front door window and more then one other. Maybe pull the front drover door arm rest and give a twist and a 'push in' to the wire harness termination on the power window controller switches.

Also, the power window buttons can fail from contact-spark deposits from operator activation. This happens with the individual switches, the most often use switch fails. Switch rebuild, with DeoxIT or, again, the SuperLube silicon grease. Both are dielectric and inhibit corrosion. Yet DeoxIT melts corrosion, also.

Or get some replacements, new or junk yard or eBay or such, used. Either way, it helps to know how to carefully disassemble and reassemble the little power window switches so you do not lose the little springs, the little ball-bearing like thingies, and what have you. A small rasp, emery paper, and such, and you can clean the contacts. A little DeoxIT or some silicon grease, and the switches will work smoothly. (I have to do this to mine, also).

It could help to remove the inner door cards (all four) and check wiring inside for condition. Disconnect and reconnect things. Use 10 mm hex socket and ensure the power window securing hardware is indeed secure. The power windows securing hardware in the door can loosen over time.

Hope that helps you. Sorry to forget and go on so long so.

Questions?

Thank you,

Winter Day Fuzzy Grey Kitty's MacDuffed.
--
Jonathan Harshman Winters III: The Mightiest, Greatest, & Most Powerful North American Comedian & Comedic Actor in Perpetuity






USERNAME
Use "claim to be" below if you don't want to log in.
PASSWORD
I don't have an account. Sign me up.
CLAIM TO BE
Use only if you don't want to login (post anonymously).
ENTER CAPTCHA CODE
This is required for posting anonymously.
OPTIONS notify by email
Available only to user accounts.
SUBJECT
MODEL/YEAR
MESSAGE

DICTIONARY
LABEL(S) +
IMAGE URL *
[IMAGE LIBRARY (UPLOAD/SELECT)]

* = Field is optional.

+ = Enter space delimited labels for this post. An example entry: 240 muffler


©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2022. All material except where indicated.


All participants agree to these terms.

Brickboard.com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo, Volvo Car Corporation, Volvo Cars of North America, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. Brickboard.com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site, similar to a club, and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found here.