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I did have a power window stop; one of the three.
Before futzing with teh (LOL Cat) switches, I removed the driver door armrest, and tested the switch.
Gave the wire harness connector a wiggle, switch worked again. Though I sprayed the switch(es) and connectors with teh (LOL Cat) DeoxIT.
And then there was teh (LOL Cat) time all of them halted. Fuse? Spinny-spin-spin. Nope. Remove fuse and chip away and what was moar like dental tarter. Also used a small stainless wire brush. Some rotten bastard light fingered Louie my DeoxIT spray can. So, some SuperLuve SillyCon grease. Nope. Nope. Nopey-nope. Relay? Nope.
Dag. Nab. It.
Before this, I'd already been in the doors of the 1990 Volvo 240 (li'l red) Wagon. Power window regulators were loose, door handles were loose, clean out the door drains (replace exterior window scrapers), lubes the locks and latches, adjusted the door opener adjustment. (The door handles come loose and so do the power window bolts). Clean and greased everything inside the door and the rear hatch.)
So while trying to think, and nuttin' happened, we have (some of you have seen these):
Went up and down. Power supply side and the load side. Corrosion at the backside of the fuse box. No apparent leaks. Just corrosion. A few of the terminals at the wire ends broke. So, had them handy.
Need to get mo DeoxIT. That stuff RULES. Low voltage DC dielectric corrosion dissolving and inhibiting grease.
Probably after getting the carbon contact pits off the power window switch contacts, slather the DeoxIT grease in there. (I had the SupeLube, again. Works. Yet does not dissolve corrosion. Dielectric, tho. Good for teh tail lights where the light bulb holder contacts slid around.)
Do no use a NoOX (and DeOX?) or other conductive grease like that used for high current, high colta AC and DC systems.
DeOX and DeOXIT are not the same.
Hope that hepkats.
Flea Bite Boyeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee.
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