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Take your time. This board has been so slow your thread will remain in view.
To be helpful to anyone interested, let me explain about the switches, where the likely fix will occur. Each switch in the window circuits, with the exception of the one for the driver's window, depends on contacts normally closed by another switch.
If you follow the path in this example circuit diagram, you can determine whether a switch contact, a fused circuit, or door jamb wire is at fault with each carefully observed symptom in a failing power window. This drawing represents the concept used to wire local and remote switches, but you may need the correct-for-your-year-and-model drawing to help with wire colors.
1991 Power Windows Circuit
1991 Power Windows Components
These switches have silver contacts, which is great for conductivity, but in low-voltage, high current circuits, switching reactive loads (like motors) the silver will be tarnished by the heat and gases generated by the arcing that occurs when the switched circuit is opened. Next time the switch closes, it is possible the mechanical wiping and low voltage needed to break through that tarnish will fail, and the contact to turn the motor on will fail.
You know this is happening when you have to try five, ten, maybe twenty times to click the switches before anything happens. And maybe even failing then if you don't know to exercise both switches -- the local one and the one in the driver's panel.
Making them reliable again is possible by restoring the silver contacts.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
"Doc, I can't stop singing 'The Green, Green Grass of Home.'" "That sounds like Tom Jones Syndrome." "Is it common?" Well, "It's Not Unusual."
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