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Clutch Pedal Tension Spring 245 200 1986

Well Dave, it's a good question. Fact is, I didn't set up the cable. Fellow named Frank Plumley who was the original owner did the original 5.0L swap back in 96. He used a Converse kit.

Now I've had the motor in/out lots of times and have now swapped in the LS. Near as I can tell from images, the clutch cable and adjuster is the stock Volvo unit. Turns out the cable stop/adjuster (yellow plastic bit with a star wheel) is a perfect fit into the corresponding spot in a fox body Mustang V8/T5 bell housing. Since I'm using a QT bell that mimics the Ford bell, it works with the LS too.

And the Mustang throw out bearing is designed to have a bit of tension on it all the time - always turning if the engine is running. That's why no spring is required. I believe on the Volvo set up, there's a 2mm gap spec'd between the clutch fork and the bearing -- and the spring is designed to pull the release fork back OFF the bearing.

So - if you're not going hydraulic, seems like the first thing to figure out is will your throw out bearing be the kind that has the fork against it all the time, or the type that requires a small gap. I think that determines the need for a spring or not.

With mine, you just unscrew the adjuster to allow the cable to be "too long" -- unhook it from the clutch fork for removal. Installation - put the ball behind the fork and then turn the adjuster until you take the slack up and have the fork putting just a touch of tension on the bearing. I got lucky - the exh manifolds I selected drop straight down between the last two cylinders. The clutch cable is too long to go BEHIND that drop, and has to make its u-turn to head back to the bell in front of the manifold drop. It's just barely long enough to do so. Had to make a small bracket to hold the cable off the manifold - and I triple heat insulated it in that area.

Hopefully that makes sense. If not, we can switch to email and I can attach some pics.






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