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Happy Thursday Uncle Old Duke!!!!!!!
Not original windshield then. Any sign of rust at the lower corners or along the a-pillar moving upward on the passenger side?
The 1991+ 240 windshield flush mount uses a reveal, if I call it correctly, to hide the windshield pinch weld gap / pan. It is not water tight.
What should be water tight is the gasket between the windshield edge and the pinchweld / pan underneath. Would you know when the windshield was replaced?
You can remove the trim that hides the a-pillar on the interior. Though take care as the plastic part as a knob like thing that slides into a keyway or something to help secure it. You should see a blue or pink or black urethane gasket. Though in the early days of urethane gasket, the cheapo windshield replacement technicians would not remove the factory butyl tape thoroughly. Sort of scrape it away and than layer on the urethane prior to installing the windshield.
The chinesium windshield from autolite and like ilk have a metal stip reinforced plastic border to poorly appear like factory. You may recall me whining about windshield replacement in my 1992 with a made in chinesium pilkington brand with such a border. I used butyl tape. I had to as the prior windshield install broke the paint in the pinch weld and I had quarter sized holes of rust that used the POR-15 method to closed up. The rust went up the a-pillar both sides. There were water intrusion signs.
If it is merely a gasket sealing failure along the passenger side a-pillar, you could try removing the passenger side a-pillar trim piece (though be careful. I'll try and find a diagram of the piece (or someone else here can, please, gots to go to cGMP werx) and how it secures to the a-pillar. You may want to remove the trim piece along the top of the windshield on the inside.
Find the leak, use you caulking tool to stuff some butyl rubber in there.
If you find rust, however, you may want to have a windshield replacement service remove the windshield. You then treat the rust and seal up holes, remove all gasket bits to gety to a clean surface or factory paint, and what repair you have to do, and have them replace it.
You can bill you auto insurance, if your auto insurance coverages allow you a windshield replacement every so often. So, you cash out may be to repair any rust.
Yet I hope it is a gasket failure without rust. Remove the interior trim, find the leaking part, clean out with a plastic tool and some isopropyl alcohol with a lint or particle free scrubby, and stuff some butyl rubber or maybe urethane if it is all urethane.
You won't know until you take a look.
I'd be a little wary of them after market flush mount reveals. Though you should be able to peer under the reveal and see the gasket condition on the exterior side.
No, not melodramatic. Anything body work on a 1992 Volvo will be out of site unless you find an honest body shop. Windshield removal and replacement and any sort of pinchweld repair should mayb go into the hundreds or so, I guess? I'm unsure.
Does that help? I or I hope someone else will post the a-pillar interior trim piece so you know how to remove it.
I always break the trim piece knob thing as I remove it in the wrong direction.
Or the keyway is on the trim piece and the knob (key) is metal welded to the interior side a-pillar. I forget right now.
Stop by and take a look I would, and when figured out, some ripple to share for us. Says Yoda.
Maybe with a splash of Fresca or Squirt soda over ice? Probably awful. Used to make wine cooler that way with awful cheapo white, blush, and red wine. The carbonation gets you a little buzzed faster!
Whaddya think?
Oh-oh. Them 'caines gearing up out of Africa to travel across the Hatlantic?
cGMP Boyeeeeeee, making things.
Rather make energy storage systems or work at the Bonneville POwer Administration as I loves the hydro power.
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