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Hi, welcome to the Brickboard!
I use to work with an old machinist, when I was young, by the name of Luther Lord. I saw the double LL's and was curious.
I would start with the battery cables themselves as either one can cause issues.
I think your car has a fuse holder coming off the positive post. This holder has smaller red wires with the holder in the middle. The insides of that holder are crappie or go being crap.
If you haven't done this already replace it with a unit that has a weather proof cap.
If it doesn't have that fuse holder an issue still maybe with those wires. They get corroded internally and weaken. Battery acid fumes are the number one cause especially if the battery has a lot of age on it. They get like old men and out gas. (:-)
This set of wires controls power over to a black junction box on the fender with a slide up cover.
The terminals in there split up power to several different points in the cars wiring.
The fuse panel inside the driver door hinge area is one of its first stops of about three simultaneously.
The instrument cluster is fed from fuses in there. I would clean the all of them on a regular bases.
The instrument cluster feeds exciter juice to the alternator upon it first starting to rotate. After that initial tickle of current the battery light goes out to supposedly say it's charging the battery.
It's called an idiot light in the old days. It means that if you don't have a voltmeter in the dash you do not know what's really going on!
It's like a wife. I rather have her wiggle a little finger (like a meter does) at me, than flash her lighting wide eyes, to get my attention. The eyes mean I'm in trouble and it could be anything!
You not having the other warning lamps coming on is saying there are power issues in here but the problem might be ten feet away or in the fuse panel.
The rolling over slow was a real heads up that something been wrong for a while!
Anyway, start with the power source, as it's the first rule in troubleshooting.
Phil
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