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Robert;
Headlights and Ignition, as well as Starting, are considered by vehicle manufacturers (entire industry of the time, not just Volvo) to be "mission critical" (to borrow a term from the military, and reliability engineering)...as such, they are not fused...adding a fuse brings with it wire terminations, and other components (crimps, the fuseholder and fuse itself) all of which are sources of (cost of course) and also points of failure (fact is there is nothing more reliable than an unbroken, continuous piece of wire!).
Regarding your "wiring is creative" comment...it sounds like wiring may even be unmolested...you have not yet mentioned any operation or function that would suggest anything has been changed (or "upgraded" by a previous owner), or is different from the factory original. These cars were absolutely reliable and there is no need to change (improve?) anything...there is however need to bring it back to its original function, before changing it (often incorrectly referred to "upgrading").
Point of information: The fact that the Cigarette Lighter in a 122 for example is not fused is more a function of cost saving than reliability of a "mission critical" function...but if one is going to use the vintage Lighter, adding a fuse IS a sensible upgrade. See: http://www.sw-em.com/Fuses,%20Allocation%20and%20Troubleshooting.htm#Fuse_your_Cigarette_Lighter
Regarding ballasted Ignition Coil...vintage Volvos do not have (or need) one...they do however have a unique Ignition System, with an Armored Cable supplying Ign Power to the Ign Coil, an effective anti-theft measure of its day, and making the so equipped cars IMPOSSIBLE TO HOT-WIRE! Many casual mechanics are quite flustered by these Ign Sw/Ar Cable/Ign Coil Assys...but don't be, these are quite reliable, and often totally needlessly replaced by mechanics who cant (or don't know how to) deal with them, not because they actually failed! See: http://www.sw-em.com/Volvo%20Ignition%20from%20Scratch.htm#Vintage%20Volvo%20Ignition%20system%20and%20the%20Armored%20Cable
I recommend you get a Wiring Diagram for YOUR vehicle (be advised that a number of changes of harness from 6V to 12V from early to late for 544 vehicles exist, so be certain you have a WD versions for your chassis No. vehicle. For example link to a 544 12V version: http://www.sw-em.com/544%20Wiring%20Diagram.jpg Remember: Color code on these WDs is your friend!), learn how to read it, study it, appreciate its simplicity(!), and ask here when in doubt. I recommend bringing components and connection back to their as-new function before "upgrading" and needlessly changing things (then, you're the one introducing "creative wiring"!)...fact is, wire does not go bad!...terminations, crimps, and connections do! Clean, refurbish the existing, and protect all with ACZP. See: http://www.sw-em.com/anti_corrosive_paste.htm
Finally, there are two places of known weaknesses, where changes (yes, true UPGRADES!) for the sake of reliability and safety should be considered. 1. Ignition Switch momentary switch to eliminate broken Ign Keys. See: http://www.sw-em.com/ignition_switch_key_breakage_tech_article.htm ...and 2. Changing Brake Light Switch from Hydraulic Pressure Sensing type to Pedal Position Sensing type. See: http://www.sw-em.com/safety_bulletin_1.htm
Please take this info and advice in the spirit it is given...don't let it scare or offend, but help.
Cheers
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