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1985 244 thread on what I'm trying to fix now: No start, Fuel Injectors 200

Hi,

I’m trying to follow on the new post to what you are doing to get this car running with injectors.
I assume the car runs a little bit on starting fluid if you tried this during all the other postings.
That test proves timing and spark is there and the car will run if the injectors opened.
You can also wrap a rubber band around both of the contacts arms and bypass the ECU to see if the car will run through the relay.

There is one other tricky thing that you might be missing when using a test light or a voltmeter, that I still like best when messing around the ECU’s for protection.
When using either tool you need to remember that you have to be ACROSS the line of potential voltage in order to read voltage.
In other words, you cannot expect a reading if “both leads of the tool” are on the same side of the battery.
There is an exception to this voltage testing idea but only if you are looking for some type of very high resistance on a ground circuit side but that is only another test not involving your troubles as you are not working at all.

I had this old post of Art Bensteins on a 1985. I kept it tagged in favorites for my 1986 wagon showing the relay wiring. It’s still LH 2.2.
https://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1636835/220/240/260/280/now_issue_fuel_injection.html

He made corrections on it or added clarity depending on your amount of fuzz one has.
I think this shows what you need stretched out flat.
The notation he made “system relay” are the fuel injectors.
It is fed power from the red wire to actually power on the injectors when ever the ECU grounds them.

The Yellow/black is like you say, the grounding wire. It is used to energize the coil to pull in the contacts for the red wire to do its job.
In all this looping of connections is where the orange wire jumps into the mix. You can read that orange wire under the AMM connector rubber boot. Then you know the injectors are hot with power.

The reason you might not be getting a reading on that grounding wire Y/B is you are not ACROSS the potential of the battery circuit. From what I can tell from the instructions it does not tell you what you have to do to get that reading with your measuring tools.
They assumed that the technical person looking at their manuals have some understanding of electrics. As we all find out “we do not” as it’s part of the “knocks on the head” of getting educated.

Phil






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