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Hi,
Man oh man that is so cold, if I were a car I wouldn’t want to be anything, But cranky!
The point I’m trying to get across is the lack of movement of the plunger body after the contacts close. You should be able to push it in farther after getting a reading that they closed.
You see there are two rods.
One is in the heavy metal core we are calling the plunger that pulls the Bendix Drive clutch to engaged the flywheel.
Rod number two is the one sticking up from the insides of the solenoid. It has the internal spring and the contact bar semi attached to it. The bar gets pushed but floats on the rod to get flat to the stud terminals.
The two rods get smacked together!
The bottom rod can move quite a bit farther after the contacts close but the core cannot push it far enough. Just enough nothing much extra from the factory.
If you noticed down in the casting there is an angled hump coming upwards around that inner rod.
The core that you can take out, has an angled recess up inside the bottom end.
Just because you shorten the end of the cores body, the core will still stop against the bottom angles. The inner angle in the core needs to be deepened.
I imagine that the angles are there to align things, in a very solid way, to center the core in the bore.
Not that it can move that much, but it helps to keep the core in the center of the magnetic field.
It also creates a larger landing pad than just the narrow circumference of the core.
I had one of these all apart and destroyed it because I was going to get a new one!
Unfortunately a rebuilder was without them and if he had them it was $60+!
He showed me the problems and how to proof for a good one and toss the others!
That is what he does!
Is he a good rebuilder, who knows?
He helped me a lot because he saw that I was that kind of guy!
I went a got another starter from a dismantling yard. The whole thing pulled by them was $35!
I got extra parts!
The easiest fix is to take all the length of the cores rod and move it downwards towards the inner rod.
As I remember, If you wanted to machine the cores angle, you still pull the cores rod out to use a 60 degree countersink tool. The same used for lathe centers.
Like I said, you can get about 2-3 mm from breaking the tack welds and squeezing the rod setup.
It’s almost unlimited doing both of the modifications but one has to remember the stroke of the Bendix has its own limit.
It still hits the end of the starter motor shaft and that bushing in the housing.
Probably the reason for the slot in the rod to give it some slop!
I remember having concerns with collapsing the slotted end under the unknown pressures of the vise to get the rod to move.
So, I reinforced the sides with two tiny plates of metal held tightly by a pair of vise grips. The whole setup fits between almost any vise opening.
You said you had “maybe” .015 extra movement. I would have liked to hear you had twice that as a minimum. The more the better, for contact make up pressure.
The extra allowance can compensate for wear like it should have been made.
If the solenoids were setup correctly the brushes and Bendix might all wear out more evenly.
The darn things last for years and years now!
Nothing on modern cars can claim that!
Scott Kilmer showed one engine design, on a V8, that the starter was under the intake manifold.
I bet that electric motor gets cooked easily!
A big $1000 + plus parts job!
The term “money pit” gets used very often on his videos.
The guy is a little goofy but it’s his good nature that keeps him going!
He make very valid points, to make sense, of the nonsense!
Phil
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