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Hi Peter,
You pose some good questions which challenge my memory. Relating the sound to the cause is an experience I can't record with a camera, or at least I don't recall taking any pics of the failed bushing. My memory has the inner sleeve detached completely from the rubber, but now I'm scratching my head wondering why I don't have the evidence to show, and a good description of what mechanical action makes the noise.
James brought up Chassis Ears. When I first learned of the product, it was one of those "if you can think of it, it has been done" moments for me, having several times wanted to rig microphones to a multitrack digital audio recorder. Best I can say is I've driven the car, listened and felt the clucking, clacking, clunking and then just went through the possibles from loose crossmember bolts to loose gland nuts. It is easy to grab a 14 and zip off the three bolts from the bushing cup, and once I do I find I can turn it any old way in my hand, when the bushing is shot.
I can tell you this much: I've never replaced one I've replaced. Not yet. Used to be that way for ball joints, but I've since broken a replacement I installed, though it didn't owe me any miles. If I found one with a loose nut like Don did, I'd have to blame myself, but gleefully, as a useful lesson.
The kids all went to school within an easy reach of home. Not so with the grandson, who found an indy shop near his school, which relieved me of the remote diagnosis pressure. Haven't seen his 240 in years now.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
"BTW, your voltage drop test is the right approach providing you repeat it with the battery connected and under load, but can be a little tricky. The trick is to catch it when it is occurring. High resistance in a contact or connection is not a stable event. Very time and temp dependent." - AB
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