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Hi
I agree with Nahtanha’s assessment that you are possibly not getting a grounding path to the spark plugs through the rotor button.
If you do not see spark, from wherever you are looking for it, that is one place that has a failure rate is that rotor button.
The best place is to take that coil wire off the distributor cap and turn it around and hold it near, about 3/16” to 1/4”, away from the top nuts and studs of the front wheel strut tower.
This check the body ground and hold it to the engines head valve cover checks the engine ground. Having grounds on both locations would double down on the coil wire being good and point even more to a cap or rotor button.
The hall sensor was change so it is supposedly good.
In 1989 the hall sensor was dropped in favor of a CPS system. That can still have issues of failure about as often as the hall sensor. The shielding wire breaks down or moisture affects the capacitance value of its output. It’s very similar to a hall sensor but still different enough!
Both systems of LH have “almost” bulletproof ICU and ECU units but “almost” has happen.
You really are right to avoid blaming the boxes and think more about wiring.
The engine wiring harness does have more issues than the boxes from 1984-on.1988.
Deteriorating insulation issue inside the sheathing.
The ICU’s wiring socket has to be suspect do to Chrysler’s brilliant engineering department.
The socket has one time use terminal pins in it. Not exactly expected in the age of multiple pin connectors and swappable components.
My 1984 or 1986 had a yellow wire connection fail in that socket. For some reason, I think it was PIN Number Two? I’m totally guessing on this as it’s been to long ago.
I ended up soldering up new connection directly onto the pin by cutting away part of the sockets plastic and scrutinizing all the female pins, in the socket, ... from the outside!
You should try wiggling and pushing those wires in the socket to see if things suddenly change for spark or running period. One of those wires have to have a signal on it, from the distributor.
Trick here is you said it’s getting gas so that means the system relay is closing to fire the injectors and run the fuel pumps.
This makes me like the rotor button idea a lot, especially since I have had one just up and totally fail and one have a slow death of a few intermittent hard starts.
Keep being systematic with the ignition service.
Post back, as this is a good refresher test!
Phil
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