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Hi again as I got notified you have question.
First there is nothing in the system, electrical or otherwise, that identifies fuel pressure in the system.
A FPR controls fuel system by dumping “excess fuel pressure” back to the fuel tank.
It is a vacuum diaphragm looking device mounted on the fuel rail. Purely mechanical.
Now,
https://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1636835/220/240/260/280/now_issue_fuel_injection.html
This link will show you a diagram of the that 25 ampere fuse.
It provides power to the main contact bridge in the relay. It powers both pumps and injectors.
You said that you have power to number 30 terminal. Red wire in!
The power has to come out on both 87-1 and 87-2 when the relay is closed.
This happens only when the ECU sees the signal from the ICU out there under the hood.
That signal is only sent while cranking or running on the 88 and earlier cars. There is no pre-pressurizing circuit like on later cars with CPS sensors.
Do you hear the main pump running, for a second only, after cranking the engine?
Wow, You have spark to “all” the plugs. You must be pretty ambitious to have them all out!
Did you see any gasoline on them? I gather you did not as there is no mention of flooding either.
Back to the diagram, you will see that 87-2 on the relay is the fuel injectors power supply wire and it is orange.
The first pick off point, that you can get to easily, with a voltmeter or test light.
This is shown on the AMM in that link I posted above. This will only be on or hot when the relay gets closed as I explained above.
You will also notice in the diagram that the orange wire runs on to host individual items.
If you are not getting power to the injectors that condition above has not been met!
The system relay is a safety feature and if you something like I mentioned to close it, it will run your battery down.
Now to really hep you out I will let you know how the injectors are fired.
The ECU closes to ground through transistors each injector for specific and varied timed pluses.
They’re fast so don’t expect to see much of a reading on a voltmeter even if you hook up between the injectors and ground. They make NOID LIGHTS for visual output recognition.
I lucked out years ago and got a whole 4pc. set for various makes of injectors for $8.00.
Trouble is, I have only used them once and that was probably to test them out to make sure they worked like I imagined.
I must have not fully developed my rule to resist buying “speciality” tools in time to stop tool box or “Hidee-hole” over filling!
I looked over the other posts and you are getting other good advice to help you isolate the issue.
Don’t rule out any of them as they are born out of actual case histories.
Phil
Edit:
Just saw your new post.
Did you jumper fuses in the door hinge panel to make the pumps run?
Open up one of those USED relays and close that sucker and look for power out at the AMM.
This might fit the post for verification of a good or bad engine harness, of which, might be in the middle of lots of things?
Like I said, I like all these posies!
(:-)
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