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Half-Assed. Are you sure it's the seals causing the smoke? The only tell tale is lifting off the gas at speed & seeing smoke.
OK, if you are broke, just six on the inlets, there is never a time when oil is sucked down the exhaust stems. 6x5/16" stem seals is change out of $10.
Doing it properly, take the head off & get it serviced(dissassembled, hot tank, new guides where required, usually 6x exhaust, stellite exhaust seats for unleaded, valve grind, inspect springs, you clean and reassemble.) When stipping, save all gaskets, the manifold gasket can be resused if in one piece, the tappet cover if it isn't shrunk, the water pump o-rings. Just a B30E head gasket & 12x generic 5/16" stem seals. Now is also the time to decide B20E or F via shaving the head. The E gasket gets the quench where it should be:.035 to .040", that improves combustion.
SAVE the head gasket, great to use for breaking in a cam, then swapping in the new one.
So do it cheap or properly.
If you take the head off, don't touch the ports, stock B30 inlet ports are better than any stock B20 port.
Also, head off is agood time to upgrade the cam. Some Swedish companies do a K cam for B30A/E/F. If you up the compression to B30E via head shaving, the enfine will respond to a long exhaust lobe. Cosworth A3 works great with stock springs for a high compression exhaust lobe. If you get your stock cam reground, go Isky VV-61x2 over the standard lobe centres for low compression or A3 exhaust for high compression.
Modifying the MPS PROPERLY will give the extra fuel required around full throttle while being able to leave or lean out part throttle mixture for economy.
If at a later time you rebuild the short block with 6x .040" OS Mahles using the same block, then all this stuff can be put straight back onto the rebuilt short block, PROVIDED you put the lifters back where they came from.
B20Paul.
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