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63C;
If you don't increase current (or Wattage) of Headlight elements (Wattage rating of OE elements are 40/45W), there is no electrical reason why you can't install elements which are whiter...or more efficient...in fact I recommend it! See: https://www.sw-em.com/lighting.htm
...but any work on lighting should be accompanied, even preceded!, by a voltage drop check to see if there are any significant in-line resistances in the current path, where voltage is being dropped (which in-turn is then not available at the elements, making them dimmer or yellower, and causes guys to want to "upgrade", or control Headlights with relays, in the first place. See: https://www.sw-em.com/lighting.htm#relay_controlled_headlights and https://www.sw-em.com/Amazon%20Lightswitch%20Review%20and%20Refurbishing%20Notes.htm ).
More than about 0.5V drop from Solenoid terminal to Headlights means Headlights are not operating with max voltage available...and if this is not sort first, that would still be the case with groovy "upgrade" elements, and a waste(!) of their groovyness, so locate and correct (minimize) voltage drops...and they can be multiple, and can be ANYWHERE in the current path, including connectors (See: https://www.sw-em.com/voltage_drop_in_headlights_power_in_hex_connector.htm )...or chassis connections, or oxidized crimps along the way. Use ACZP (NOT DIELECTRIC GREASE!) to minimize for a LONG time! (See: https://www.sw-em.com/anti_corrosive_paste.htm )
Cheers
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