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It is tough, Mark. The replacement of the Hall switch is finicky work I've never attempted. I would've attempted it if I'd ever needed to.
If you go through the relevant posts (searching on Hall) you'll find many reports that the small electrical leads from the sensor itself to the connector on the outside of the dizzy have lost insulation. When this model year was more likely to be found in the junkyards, the simplest fix was to swap distributors.
I'd advise you to double check your conclusion carefully. It isn't my chart, it is Volvo's chart. Folks with the later cars with a crank position sensor (CPS) complain about how difficult that replacement is. This Hall-effect switch in the distributor is a bit more involved.
Finally, one good piece of advice is you do not crank the engine with the dizzy cap removed. If you do, inevitably one of the clips will fall into the fragile slotted vane, destroying it. Might be obvious advice, but reading the Brickboard for the past 20 years, I've heard the story many times.
Yes, check carefully before committing $70. One trick to prove the Hall OK is to use a feeler gauge to mimic the vane while it is positioned in a window, monitoring the voltage out or listening for the fuel pump activation. Read everything you can on this first.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
"It's so much darker when a light goes out than it would have been if it had never shone." John Steinbeck
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