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Hi,
A warmer cabin or leaky fuel ball that empties itself?
Interesting proposals that are much like my way of guessing too!
That’s not so good, either? (:-)
Temperature of the cabin changing is somewhat compensated for by design of the gauges being so generic and not accurate, isn’t it?
If the voltage stabilization device was going “wonky” wouldn’t it affect the the temperature gauge as well? They both work the same way in as they both get heated up enough to move the needle up.
Is it possible that the temperature compensation board, built in the cluster, works off of the same power connection. So wouldn’t it dip out as well?
Bye the way, Most people have removed that board, by using a jumper wire, so it works more like a regular fuel gauge.
This leaves me to think that you replaced the rusted fuel tank, how about the other stuff attached?
How much of a whole unit are we talking about here?
This appears to be a bad wiring or connections nearest the sender that was there before the repair.
Now you went and done it, You have disturbed Mother Nature!
(:(
How much newer is the tank to warrant the yank and filler neck woes?
What is less rusted on top and are you assuming is good.
Rust is very deceiving and corrosion under wire insulation is a real mind bender when troubleshooting.
Anyways, just feeling your pains!
Phil
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