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What brand of piston is it? An aftermarket piston might possibly be 85mm.
How wide are the rings? 2mm & 5/64" are awefully close too.
What is the side clearence of the top ring? The top ring groove is where the piston wears out. Have a VERY CLOSE LOOK for or at the step on the top side of the top ring groove. 0.005" ring groove clearence is the maximum for a quicky re-ring job.
.005" side clearence on a Mahle will be a little noisy, but depending how you drive, could go for a long time.
Also, in a cheap rebuild, you should be fine reusing the bearings, the rear main is the only bearing I have seen wear beyond limits due to dickheads who like to ride the clutch, etc.
If the cam has 8 good lumps, reuse that too!
The 2nd ever B18 I rebuilt cost me just $20 bucks for a box of Sealed Power plain top rings and about $2 dollars for a set of generic grade 8 nuts for the rods(THESE ONLY GO ONE WAY, Gr8 markings outwards)
NEVER USE CHROME TOP RINGS. If you ever get NOS Mahle Pistons, toss the rings & by some moly top rings instead. Don't use Hastings rings of the 're ring' type either, they have excessive pressure against the bore.
I like to add an O-Ring to back up the Square O-Rings on the oil pump pipe too & the oil pump, if OK, could use a new standard pressure spring.
I also use 'wick in' type Loctite after torque the rod bolts, new oil pump bolts gr8 or Allen head with medium or 'wick in' type Loctite, new Gr8 bolts with high tensile flat washers for the cam lock plate, no stupid fold tab thing, just more Loctite. Use high tensile washers for the head bolts too and always use greenbook spec oil on the threads and flat sides of Main bolts, Rod Bolts, Head Bolts and the cam nut, else the torque value is useless.
I have more tips if anyone wants them.
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