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Hi Dan,
Well now, that sounds like an improvement!
Amazing that you only changed the throttle body gasket. Was it in some sort of terrible condition?
I don’t get what about the ignition switch had to do with that? Mysterious?
I know the AMM cannot work correctly with “any kind” of air leakage behind it.
When you say it runs poorly, I assume, you mean it is shaking a lot on the motor mounts as a description.
Is it hard to start back up right after a shut down? Or does it tick right over?
I’m trying to determine the conditions of “ignition spark” and “cam timing” that you mentioned is pretty hard to mess up.
The rotor button “pointing direction” is not accurate as you would think. It has a wide tip for a reason.
Do you have a strong thick spark out of the coil wire to a strut tower stud?
Check for the crankshaft and valve cam marks to be absolutely together!
You would be surprised how many times you can keep doing “the same wrong thing” over and over when you work by yourself without a sounding board reference!
Don’t discount these things happening.
If it is hard to start, as in like not getting fuel quickly or having to catch up from a too rich mixture that in itself are to different kinds of running poorly. Both cause shaking.
I have read many times, that the timing belt being off one tooth, can create a mind twisting so badly that nice normal words don’t always come out, even though, it supposedly stress relieves! (:)
I have gathered up the idea that this car needed a lot of “work orders” completed!
Heater hoses never jump to the top a pile.
There has to be an explanation at the end of one of them!
Phil
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