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Hello to Amarin and the Malaysia brick drivers in general.
You bring up an interesting point PAST the discoloration mark on the head and it’s about the camshafts reinstallation.
I would apply “engine assembly lubrication grease” to the cam and journals upon reassembly. Covering with oil after the head is on doesn’t hurt either.
I would want the camshaft supported on a stable lubrication film right off.
His head or the engines is now fitting a lot better with your help.
Now you can help me with mine. 🤪
I’m not an automotive machinist and have very little knowledge about their specialized one of a kind equipment. I just know it expedites things like every special made tool does.
I have only changed five head gaskets in my lifetime and with only one being on a red block. So all these heads had an overhead camshaft.
On that one, I didn’t have to resurface the head either.
On this consideration of camshafts, I went with the belief that it was “best” to not to even remove the camshaft.
I measured the head for flatness, cam in place, as it was in specification. This after 220+K miles on it.
I just cleaned the surface and remounted the head with a new gasket and the same bolts again.
That was over 100K back and many years ago on my 1978 GT.
My problem was a slight oil seepage problem with the head gasket right above the oil filter. There is an oil passage right there.
I’m sure a coolant passage was going to be next.
Since I have never resurfaced one of these overhead cam heads before and a question was brought up about if the valves if could be left in.
I agreed it would not make any difference as long as the valves were not up.
So to resurface it the cam had to be removed or at least on a cylinder or two but why not remove it all together?
From the looks of his pictures that’s what was done. It’s out.
So my questions are lurking to follow below.
Apparently this head was not warped or if it was what would they do then?
What is done about the camshaft journals becoming out of alignment when the head gets unbolted and the camshaft caps are off?
If the head is resurfaced do they align their specialized head broaching machine, from front to rear, to the cam journals or just go with the ends of the original heads surface to be zero?
What about those journals and caps in the middle?
I don’t see how the cam gets back straight without doing another line boring for the camshaft journals in between.
Recutting the caps split lines and line boring can save a lot of heads before shaving the decks.
The .020 height stipulation can go out the window, in my opinion as long at the valves don’t overreach into the combustion chambers. .020 is a lot to work with, in reality, when moving the camshafts location.
Only then can it be a nicely saved rebuilt head in my book.
Having this machining done versus it being, in actuality, a cracked head are more common that let on.
If this is not done, for extreme cases, the camshaft is going to be in there very tight and wipe itself out.
Again I’m not an automotive machinist but just curious what’s done in these cases besides to get another replacement head used or rebuilt.
He had no serious issue like this but I would still be curious about how things went down with any resurfaced or rebuilder's head.
Wouldn’t it be wise to test rotate the cam, with in its journals with Lube without the buckets in the way?
Phil
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