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Hi,
Dave Steven has hit on all the very valid points of a no start with the AMM unplugged scenario.
It does exactly as he says the management system resorts to the very basics just as he says.
What you have is not enough other information to point you away from what you think is working each time.
While I was reading his response on the connector pins having moved UP in the plug.
It was a wise choice especially since you have already traded out the AMM.
There’s no telling how many times that has been done before you got the car.
I believe it is truly something else and if Dave had more information he would definitely changes lanes and look for another exit.
The man is a very sharp diagnostics person and conveys his thoughts to his posts.
In saying that, he is like the others on the BRICKBOARD and can be of limited use from an armchair.
We do not have eyes, hands and ears on the car and FaceTime still has its limitations.
The No Start scenario in the morning but does well the rest of the day is more of a lack of fuel since you should have a good tune going on with the ignition system. IF EITHER AMM works, the rest of the day, I say discount it as the problem. For the most part they, the 016s, are very reliable.
Refrain from using a spray cleaner, especially, if the AMM has the stretched fine wire, they are delicate.
Several Brickster’s have questioned if they could have ruin an AMM with that stuff.
On Other mechanical vane types or solid state sensors the AMM’s still can benefit from a spray.
Several Hondas have been fixed with it so I have a can of it but not the Honda cars.
Just my relatives or neighbors have seen it work for their Hondas but then later models use a decent identification code to help circumvent, going by tow, to a shop.
You need to try bump the starter a few times but not cranking it much to see if it starts easier when you tire of bumping it.
The fuel rail maybe losing volume overnight or the fuel pumps are hesitating to jump up the fuel pressure.
Next would be check the plugs for cylinder flooding or complete dryness.
The ECT, engine coolant temperature, sensor could be a fault and so can a throttle position sensor if it doesn’t say I want to idle while starting up.
You should never have to depress the gas pedal on these cars. It screws things up in the ECU and air mixtures that will throw you a curveball right there.
It destroys what you need into the cylinders as a troubleshooting reading.
Hope this helps you check other things to tell us.(:)
Phil
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