Community Forums:

Hi,

I went and checked heights on two sedans and a wagon. I get anywhere around up to 26” as an average to be fairly normal.
I have rear springs used on mid eighties wagons under all my sedans. It can make the rear end set up to one inch higher. I got the idea from my 1978 GT that’s a factory Setup to be tilted higher in the rear.
Original sedan springs do weaken or settle downward losing strength support that I have not noticed on the GT.
Most likely a different specification.
On the standard sedans a moderate load to squish them far sooner and car looks ugly. IMHO.
Adding luggage or passengers made it non-acceptable to me.
My first experiment was with IPD overloads under a sedan but they are too harsh for an empty trunk.
They went onto my 86’ wagon and those springs from there helped the sedan feel more normal.
The wagon now hops up a little extra on the speed humps when empty but I can stuff up that sucker even better. (:)

I run the 195s mostly now as they are a more popular size from Costco than the 185.
Either sizes are not carried in the stores but available from their distributors within a couple of days by ordering.
As far as I know this is so nationwide within the Michelin brand. Don’t know about Bridgestone.

I also have one car with the 185-70 and others in 195-70s. Both are Manufactured in 2015 and are the Defenders
My wagon has the older tires of the “X” radial style of 195-75 profile.
I wonder if I have seen the last of the 195-75s. I might have to run a 205-60 or 70’s to keep road height and load capacity as designed.
I once had 205s on a sedan and the car was quieter and somewhat more stable with likewise same air pressures as my other tires.
Tire carcasses vary wildly with aging and I have better longevity and less air loss with Michelins.

You might consider that the tires are questionable in your case on the car since it’s a speed resonance thing.
You have told us many variable factors that the car actually bopping up and down.
Have you tried putting BB’s inside a clear glass dish or jar.
You should see how they react to the floor or seats.
If you driving an airplane 😳I’d say hang a pencil on a string from the ceiling to make sure you are not upside down.🙄
My scan tools are cheap but microphones or cameras under the car might be next.

Move the jar around inside the car and see if they are truly jumping or bouncing up and down and not rolling like they ought too.
The passenger seat can create a noise if it’s not sat in.
The back can shake if not left snug in a direction or worn.

Tired carcasses of aged tires or a slipped belt(s) are factors in ride and noise. The front end floats or is more reactionary than the rear axle. More like having two independent girlfriends. 🫣

A belt bulge or a knot is another resonance thing.
Remember all rolling tires become flattened on one side and can “stay flat” on one side if no longer rolling long enough. 🤪(:-)

I’m thinking that all tires sizes are suffering from shrink-inflation and have for quite sometime now. IMO.
With the introduction of more and more foreign tire makers under our DOT regulations the market is wide open to to quality issues along the lines of longevity.
What’s fine for a couple years slowly gets bad enough to notice.
Use to be with tires and batteries you received in accordance of with what you paid for them.


I don’t think oatmeal stiffness is what you are inferring here but maybe the front struts having stiffness.
You lost me there.
I assume you are referencing the strut inserts. Are your tires running round without dimples or waves in the top of the tread blocks? They should be smooth with no golfer divots.
I’m trying to imagine your testing procedure but reading the tires wear is best.
Wouldn’t you have to have the insert out from under the cars springs to hear or feel the hydraulics setup.

I can only see a spoon in oatmeal so it still leaves me lost.

You are keeping this interesting I’ll give you that.
I thought you had the driveline shop work on this before?

Phil