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Hi Dave,
Thanks for the nice reply to my questions and as usual it is chocked full of information.
You definitely keep things alive here on the BRICKBOARD.
I never knew that the thermostatic valves went back into the one series either.
I did realize that most of the coolant loss was outside of the cabin. Otherwise the wipers could have located the mess outside and get wiped around.
I guess that’s foolish thinking on my part as the cowling vents bring it all right on in to the insides of the car.
I don’t like the idea of having to replace a heater core so yes I would put towels in there everywhere.
Just think of them as dry eyeballs with green or yellowish witness stains. (:)
Over the years I have collected some heater valves during my salvaging in junkyards.
I too thought there has to be a point to make adjustments in their manufacturing.
I don’t know if they lose gas in the sensing bulb or it slips out of range from wear.
Some of my collections gave me fairly new valves so the plan was to sit down and check them out.
Setup a way to heat the bulb coil and observe the actions.
So far that plan disappeared on to many of my back burners so a box of them just sits.
When a human hand is involved in operating devices there is going to be wear someplace.
That cable is constantly getting slammed back and forth.
Things just break around us creatures. (:-)
The Wagonmeister.com sells a ball valve replacement but it’s plastic and he has had issues when getting it manufactured. He fought to refine his efforts and I guess he still offers them ?
I have two installed and so far it’s working in place of the original.
I have seen cheaper valve than his offerings, made of metal, but haven’t read any reviews.
Tome, a ball valve is all that’s needed as you learn where to slide the cable or adjust a window or blower.
I don’t need a thermostat or those electronic black boxed gremlins to fail, using vacuum lines, to make it all work.
As far as leaking I wanted to study the prospects of making replacement seals. The design is simple enough as there isn’t anything else to fail in the original valve.
The feasibility of doing that was another big idea of mine when I was younger yet.
But I have passed retirement age and have gotten somewhat lazy. (:(
Having summer and winter homes and seven vehicles to keep running is keeping me busy doing maintenance. Yard work, painting and enticing projects just keep a coming.
I just mounted a grain grinder onto a standing bicycle for a sister-in-law.
I biggest lesson learned and just beat myself up with, was removing heavy rust above the pinch weld flats.
In One three inch place it was all the way through.
I’m not a body man by any means but I fixed it by blending the face around the windshield with the satin SEM black trim paint.
It covers the POR15 and the body coming out from under the gasket for a short distance.
The black gaskets facing that outwards just looks a little larger.
The cars paint is in good shape and its a dark metallic gray, so I’m getting away with it. (:-)
Th mobile glass installer was fairly impressed but he say rusts makes all installers run away or they just cover it up on used cars.
I know why as it seemed to take me forever and my labor is cheaper. Caring labor is absolutely hard to find today.
He will be installing a new glass in my 86 wagon with the old trim, of which, I thought couldn’t be done.
I found a good man even if he doesn’t pull it off. He did them about 15 years ago.
Doing your own work is so satisfying in so many ways!
I’m now enjoying one of my paybacks again.
So waxing up a couple cars is the next thing to relax with.
Phil
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