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Hi,
Glad to see you are a new member.
You are receiving lots of agreements to causes and your course of actions. I’m with them too.
I have noted that you said the car runs fine after it get over the early warming up period.
This is with the engine being dead cold overnight that leads you to thinking it’s lacking fuel.
The ticket here is not so much a rest pressure but having a full or filled up fuel rail static wise.
You appear to not be thinking it’s too rich enough to cause foul plugs.
You are mentioning having to do restarts for it crashing to a stop.
It is just lopping over and not getting complete combustion but hits in an orderly fashion.
This sort tells mean it hitting on lean cylinders.
So the question lies in between.
Lack of fuel or too much air?
Since this is mostly on a cold engine of which means things are not fully expanded or oiled up it turns on my imagination.
The lack of oil doesn’t exactly figure in much as causing a miss but the engine is tighter dry.
The IAC compensates for many variables unless they get sticky and is a wear item.
So going back to thinking lean and factoring in the years of splendid service.
I’m thinking like you it must be time for replacements.
This could be a leaking intake manifold gasket. They do not last forever and most newer replacements are IMO too thin to last. I try to get something beside FelPro in this area. Victor Reinz seem like OEM to me but are hard to locate in brick and mortar stores.
I say this because I have found this symptom can happen so slowly that it gets disregarded easily.
Probably only one runner get a tear or split at first but this is a progressive symptom.
So in time it goes up to two runners or you can have three runners, each, doing just a little bit at a time.
The head and the manifold masses are always moving.
The gasket gets soaked with gasoline vapors as the injectors spray right on top of the intake valves.
Oil vapors are introduced from the crankcase.
Aluminum being what it is, it’s not a thermoplastic, of which, is another animal in the automotive zoo.
With this ingredient plugged from your post is making a notable variation in how much when cold and none later.
The slight heating time will change to longer.
The symptoms are going to get worse as vacuum leaks do that by their own nature.
Same goes with a tiny split in the accordion tube behind the AMM. The symptom creeps into the mixtures until it can cause sudden idling failures.
Another possibility, not mentioned, is the coolant sensor for the fuel management system. It could be out of calibration or even have a bad connection if it is rich or lean running?
But for only 30 seconds of time makes it NOT a likely candidate, especially, if your mileage is decent.
A 92 C thermostat helps that a bit for in town short runs. IMHO
Anyways I got out my thoughts.
We need an interesting thread and hopefully it’s going to get resolved quickly for you.
Phil
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