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Hi Lawren,
I was wondering what had happened to you on the Brickboard and with the head work you procured.
I sure would not like to see you pull that head off again for this high or lower temperature gauge symptoms.
If they put in a higher resistance to any circuitry, that doesn’t make sense to me, will only appease your anxiety.
Having the timing marks right on has nothing to do with it running like crap unless it’s not jumping farther around when the engine is raced up.
Adding resistance to an engine coolant temperature circuit surely would affect the mixtures but only on a LH system.
I think we determined that you have a K jet mechanical system so all of that goes out the window.
I need to tell you about my 1978 GT B-2.1 F with a K jet system, that I still have.
What you are describing has happen to me.
It turn out to be a wire from the temperature sensor inside the harness on the firewall side to the gauge. It lost most of its insulation against another wire, maybe a ground somewhere else down below.
I pulled the sensor wire out of the harness with another twisted/soldered to it. Pulled it from the top down to the sensor end and put on another terminal.
I guess you could go either way.
I don’t remember replacing the upper half going to the instrument cluster.
I blame a lot bad wiring a lot on engine cleaners harming wiring.
In the next few years Volvo made a lot of bad engine harnesses referred to as “biodegradable.” So I could be all wrong here.
Your issue is a similar episode. Mine was in or about 200,000+ miles on the engine.
I too worried that this might affect the engine if it kept being high somewhat regularly.
I had also notice some excessive oil sweating just above the oil filter from the head, so then maybe, I’m having a head gasket issue too.
So I yanked the gasket out and put it all back together.
This is why I suggested leaving the head alone and no reworking.
Fired that mother up and there it was again the gauge went back up despite a new thermostat change earlier.
I change it only because the Wahler thermostat was still working accurately after 17 years.
Sure I change coolants but hoses and working thermostats get used more and than a couple years.
Now coolants are touted to last longer so will hoses treated like a Timex too.
How far can you drive on empty is a bothersome question, OK?
Volvo hoses, of which use to be made in Australia, are a long ongoing experiment on my part. Very few changes but I have them in stock.
I cannot recommend any domestically makers of hoses, since I have owned Volvos.
I became sold on this Wahler because it comes from the manufacturer dated and made of a brass frame with a copper cased wax motor.
As far as I know no one else does all that.
Both are Compatible materials in my thinking of metallurgy.
Other brands are cheaper for many many other reasons.
I’m evaluating the new owners, Borg Warner, if they’ll keep it that way?
I still have the old one it in is replacements box.
I keep good things around me.
You could say I’m becoming “dated” for doing that as well.🥴
Anyway, after that miserable diagnosis of possible overheating, the oil sweating did go away permanently.
I took noticed that all the pressurized oil going up to the head is right there.
There’s not much gasket space for sealing and it’s close to the outer edge.
So this wasn’t something that was ever going to go away and a head gasket was the fix.
The B-23 and the B-230 might be different but I’m not one to want to find out until …?
So Now, I was back to the temperature gauge “conundrum” that you are having it seems.
I suggest you locate the wire in the harness and replace the engine side half like I did.
Do you have just a plain harness and no connector through the firewall?
Mine curled up high enough to access it from the top to open.
On My 1984’s wires were put in a split loom by the previous owners mechanic.
This was from the LH gray connector back downward.
It’s Not a factory looking repair so yours might be really bad inside if it’s solid.
On my 1986 I wrapped the joint it with emergency silicone tape at the time.
It’s still holding up just fine and both remind me about Volvo harnesses.
Good luck using my thoughts, I hope it helps.
The 1978 has about 350K now.
I say about, because the car wore out the odometer’s shafts or the journals, made out of the aluminum frame.
I had peened them over to tighten them up once before.
VDO never expected them to last long anyway.
The MPH still works and the center clock is intermittent but I have a replacement.
I intermittently ask myself if I’ll ever replace it.😊
I quit looking about ten years ago.
I don’t drive it as much as use too, so it’s all guess.🤔
Phil
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