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Hi,
Glad to hear you found so much off in there. That helps explain the strange noise you heard when it did run that little bit.
As far as the belt walking sideways that was probably the tensioner more than the crankshaft sprocket since you didn’t break it when bolting it up. Make sure to inspect it for any cracking from the teeth in towards the bore.
Make sure you have it on there straight and flat with the one sheet metal guide is engaged on the surface key so it gets flat against the shoulder of the crankshaft.
Yes, the tensioner can cause the belt to walk and the need for the “driver” sprocket to have the guides as well.
I mentioned that its bracket needs to be flat against the engine. It is possible that the pivot point or locating pin did not get completely down into the engines hole.
Make sure the area is cleaned out and off of weeped oil.
As bad camshaft seal creates gunk that gets disturbed when changing belts.
It’s is a very short pin.
Take it off and get it right under there.
I cannot speak on the freewheeling aspect of good or bad bearing.
Used is used to some extent and that’s a judgement call.
It is possible but doubtful, that the bearing had creeped crooked on its bracket.
It’s only a press fitted affair into the back plate.
You can study what I’m taking about. It should be a flush and straight fit. New parts help with that provided new is a quality of replacement. That may have played a part.
If the bearing was having an issue in rotation then maybe it work on that fit.
I admit it should have been hard to do it as the hold down bolt goes through the middle of it?
So it’s back to the rolling elements inside.
A new bearing set should negate all of those possibilities.
The thing you are calling a donut, on the crankshaft is a harmonic balancer. It’s made more to protect the crankshaft itself from running stresses, especially on the turbo engines.
It’s the only thing that might, in my mind🙄, that can be referred to as a donut. Then it is rubber inner liner in under the pulley grooves section.
Volvo in MY general opinion got a little nuts with where they put in rubber to isolate vibrations.
I referring to the driven accessories. The alternator mount was not an exceptionally precision device and the rubber bushing just made things worse with age.
The arrangement down there goes back to older reciprocating piston compressors. Up and down motions.
Due to torque they had to be mounted solidly.
Even with all that it created pulsing in the drive line back onto everything else when in operation.
As I remember for Volvo was not into A/C in Sweden so to get into the American market in the seventies they bought into a hodgepodge with vendors.
Todays newer swash plate, six piston compressor that has been negated better. I sincere doubt rubber bushings should still be used as everything else is rotary in nature.
I am not one to go experimenting for the fun of it since the bushing are relatively cheap but that cheapness speaks to me. No one is going to pay me to correct that and I’m the only one that would probably appreciate losing the misalignments.
As far as being a novice aren’t we all!
It’s like learning how not to double click and creating a double post.
The Brickboard can be slow or faster you just never know.
By the time we are not such a novice at something changes.
In the early days of computers you had to double click because upload speeds were very slow.
In essence they still are but faster on one end or the other.
FCP EURO site still makes me double click to get it to go. Just the way it is set up.
Now take the Brickboard. Things come and go.
It is faster or slower but the term “wait for it” helps us all to realize our novice modes.
😀
Phil
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