Hi,
Yes your last statement is correct. It Goes over the tensioner last.
I assume you are cocking it back and using a nail or small drill shank in a hole that the spring covers up.
This will lock it backwards.
I put the cam on first and then around the big sprocket.
Go on around the crankshaft while keeping things rather tight in between as the camshaft as it will not move on you very easily.
Working all the slack out with both hands up and around the tensioner or one hand down by the lowest sprocket.
If the belt still has lines, you will notice that the crankshaft line will be higher and about three teeth away from going over to the tooth that the rib on the engine lines up to the rear belt guide notch.
You don’t need the belt lines they are just handy to watch for.
The main thing is that the crankshaft and the camshaft is really tight to turn so just concentrate on NO slack around the two and over the intermediate sprocket.
I use a mirror to look along the outside of the sprocket and down in between the plastic cover for a protruding plastic line. It’s on the inside. The mirror does away with parallax vision.
The belt will be very close to the tensioner if not on it lightly and that’s when you pull the pin.
Tighten the tensioner down Look at all the dots and the notch.
Rotate the engine around some until you might see some slack develop.
Stop there.
Loosening it again and retighten.
Roll the engine a few more time until it stays tight the whole trip around at least one but twice is better.
That’s all you can do until you put a few hundred miles on the belt.
I redo the belt tension after that as part of every future oil change.
Hope that helps.
Phil
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