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Hi Jack,
I've been unable to access Brickboard since your last post, now it's suddenly started to work again.
Badly fouled plugs might mean a leaking injector.
If you have old gas from the long layup get some Techron injector cleaner in the tank.
Don't be quick to replace your CPS. You may have a damaged harness connector.
Take the CPS connector apart clean with a toothbrush and 90% alcohol.
Blow out with air and examine the EFI pins.
Compare with each other looking for damaged , loose pins.
Use Penetrox-A on those pins to deter corrosion and improve conductivity.
Service also the AMM EFI connectors with Penetrox.
Two good pages to review by Ron Qwas and Dave Barton.
http://sw-em.com/anti_corrosive_paste.htm
https://www.240turbo.com/fusepanel240.html#ox-gard
BURNDY PENETROX A ELECTRICAL JOINT COMPOUND 8 FL oz
https://www.ebay.com/itm/385735185784 $16.04 Apr 2024
There should be a heavy ground wire to the bell housing.
Make sure that ground is clean and tight.
Lube with nickel or copper anti seize (conductive) grease or Penetrox
Corroded fuses need cleaning and apply penetrox Paste with a Q-Tip especially fuse 4 for the tank pump, and the 30 amp fuse at the battery.
Verify that the two signal grounds are solid at the intake manifold.
pull on the ring lugs to verify no loose crimped ring lugs. Best to solder them.
Phil's suggestion about spark is solid, do you get a robust white spark
at All of the plugs?
After it runs 3 minutes and quits see if the power amplifier is HOT.
This is a good job for a non contact IR thermometer. Too hot it will act up.
You can clean the connectors and renew the thermal paste to the heat sink.
Provide an email address in case Brickboard croaks again.
Good luck, Bill
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