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Hi Randy
Just to clarify here, you're talking about fuse 8 blowing (the 30 amp fuse for the window motors) not fuse 9 (15 amp fuse for the power window and power seat relay) or fuse 23 (25 amp fuse for the heated seats).
Your case is interesting in that it seems the driver door window needs to operate or move a bit before the fuse blows. Given that you need to operate the window to blow the fuse and given that the fuse contacts seem loose it does make you wonder if the fuse has poor contact and is too easily overheating. Because you added the dashcam to that circuit you may have overheated the fuse and weakened the terminal contact. I'd want to think about pulling out the relay tray so you can flip it over to inspect underneath for an overheated connection, especially for melted plastic, both at the fuse and at the power window relay (front row, leftmost, small cube). Pinching the terminal contact tighter and using RTV or silicone sealent to hold the terminal more solidly in place in the panel would be a band-aid fix, otherwise you may need to replace the contact as well as the socket or fuse panel, probably easier to wire in a separate fuse holder.
I would normally expect a blown fuse to indicate a short rather than an overload. For power window problems, the issue is commonly a broken wire at the driver door hinge area. Normally none of the windows would operate, except for the passenger door window operated at the passenger door switch which has its own power directly from the relay (the rear windows get their power through the driver door switch pod child lockout switch). If the fuse is blowing I would normally expect it to blow as soon as the ignition is turned on without operating any window. If the fuse blows only when the driver door window is operated (other windows wouldn't blow the fuse) then I would expect the short to be in the wiring between the driver switch and the motor, which would be extremely uncommon unless someone had been working in the area and a wire got pinched in the window mechanism.
The power window relay is rarely a problem and if anything would simply stop working or work intermittently rather than blow a fuse.
I'd pull the relay tray first before opening up the door to see if I can spot the problem area.
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Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now
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