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Hi Alex,
There's a note in the 700/900 FAQ about worn control arm cone bushings on the radius rod, aka. stay rod, causing brake pull as well as notes on replacing them. If you find the radius rod rear bushing happens to be tearing, which isn't as common, then you basically have to buy a whole new rod with the bushing already pressed in. There were two different lengths (an earlier one and a revised slightly longer one to improve handling), also adjustable ones available, so check to make sure you get the correct one to match the other side. For a '97, yours will almost certainly be the revised one.
https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/Brakes.html#BrakesPullWhenAppliedControlArmBushings
https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/FrontSuspension.html#RadiusArmBushingReplacement
Make sure you get the bolts good and tight, especially the rear chassis bolt. Be sure to tighten them with the suspension normally loaded, i.e. both front wheels up on ramps. The Volvo Pocket Data book torque spec for the front control arm stay rod bolt is 74 ft-lbs. Torque spec for the rear stay rod chassis bolt varied with the bolt size, with the standard M14 bolt being 89 ft-lbs. Aftermarket manuals have slightly different torque specs. A wheel alignment is optional unless you change the stay rod length, but if the last alignment was done with badly worn bushings then best to do it again.
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Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now
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