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Hey
Well. I figured I would give the 242 a run tonight since it had not seen the roads for a while due to a warm starting problem. Well I checked the Mobil 1 10w-30 synthetic in the crankcase with the dipstick. Reads full. Drove around for good 15-20 minutes/15 minutes or so, with no problems.
Got it back let it sit for a few hours to let it cool down, since it develops the warm start problem after sitting for 2-3 hours after being run. Well it fired up and ran fine so I figured it might have been a fluke or something I might have caused by using a bit much di-electric grease on the fuses. Since I thought it was a fluke I figured, heck it works I will do the various other things I need to before tomorrow when I head to school.
So I put the lights for the center console back where they are supposed to go to light the heater controls. Then I moved onto changing the light in the oil pressure gauge. I must have switched out tons of different bulbs, gauges and even tried different wires. Funny thing is, the light would not come on. So I slapped a known good bulb in and buttoned it back up figured it woudl not light up. Weird thing is, all the connections back on and the metal attaching piece that holds it to the instrument panel somehow made it work when all the gauges where in.
Then I tried to start it again. Same problem I had been having before.
It would start, seem like it was going to run, then die. Responds very little to throttle input at that point. So I got to diagnosing.
As per John Laughlins suggestion, I tested the resistance @ the Impulse Sender connector near the ignition computer. It read right in the middle of spec. Then I tested the coil. Only .1 higher than spec. Then I tested the Ballast Resistor, that too was only .1 out of spec. Funny thing is I forgot to reattach one of the leads on it.
Did that harm anything ignition/engine wise by not having a lead connected?
Should I replace the Ballast Resistor?
So when I tried to start the car again it would start, and immediately die when I let go of the key.
then I went DOH, forgot that one lead. Reattached it and it started just fine.
Cept now, the oil pressure gauge read really low, almost in the red zone of the 3 bar that I have. Made me wonder, so I shut it off, let it sit for a few minutes. Then started it again, now the gauge was in the RED and the oil idiot light was ON. Now I know both are independent of each other. So I wondered if I had lost tons of oil. Checked it thinking it would do some good, it seemed ok but the engine was still partially warm so the reading was not valid. There were no puddles or oil spots anywhere. I do lose some oil out the valve cover gasket, but at the rate of about 1 quart per 3-4 weeks or so. Very minor, if it were major or I lost a lot of oil on that last run I would have saw smoke and smelt it bad, neither of which I encountered. Still wondering why it read low when 3 hours earlier while driving it was just fine, it would drop @ warm idle to around 2 then peg beyond 3 when throttle was given.
So now I am very stumped and quite irritated, seems now I have a warm starting problem and a possible oil pressure problem. I hope it is the gauge/sender/wiring though since I dont want to replace an oil pump. Especially since this engine is only 7K old on the rebuild. I did not rebuild it personally.
What is the best mechanical pressure gauge to get for plugging into the back of the head for read pressure testing? What fitting would I need, and what do I seal it with? What are the appropriate pressure readings for cold and warm engines?
I know I should have done this a long time ago when I seemed to have the same issue. But changing oil, filter and tightening the connections at the sender seemd to make the problem go away. I have heard no strange noises or anything like that. So I think/hope the oil pump is fine.
again, sorry for the long probably boring post.
Just had to vent. This is very frustrating since I got it in May.
thanks again
take care
Luke
82 242T 161K miles
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