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I did mine for the first time about a year ago and had to do it about 5 times. I must be a moron. The first time took a few hours. I did replace all the seals, but not the water pump. I replaced the water pump once on a '74 140 I owned and never could get it to stop leaking, so I will wait until this water pump goes before I try it. I bought the tool to hold the crank pulley so you can get the crank pulley bolt off. I got it from Beechmont Volvo for around $40 (maybe less but I don't exactly remember). The biggest pain in the butt was holding the cam and intermediate shafts so I could get the nuts off them to remove the pulleys and the seals. I do not have an impact wrench so I used the old timing belt and channel locks to make a homemade strap wrench. It was not fun. I also needed a helper for this part.
When I got it back together it wouldn't run right. So I took it apart again and found that the intermediate shaft had moved a little. It is difficult to see the mark on that shaft and the alignment mark on the block or case. After getting it back together it ran, but leaked oil. I didn't have the crank seal in properly. It doesn't seat against anything, so you have to be careful not to put it in too far. Mine was crooked, I had a feeling it wasn't going to work and it didn't. So I bought another one and went to the hardware store and got a PVC pipe cap end (I think it was 2") to help me hammer it in straight. It worked. I used Redline pre assembly lube or something like that on the seals. It is a paste type lube in a jar used for assembling engines. I used it on the '74 B20F engine I rebuilt. It actually ran after I got done with it.
I got to where I could get the car apart in about 20 minutes.
Good luck!
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