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"Good grief, is this a riddle?"
No, but if it was easy then anybody could do it.
If it's the crank seal, it sits in a seal housing. You can pick the seal outta the housing as Steve suggested, using a small pointed hook -- these come in a set available at the hardware store for a few bucks.
Personally, I prefer to remove the seal housing from the block and install the new seal in the housing (working on my bench). Then I reinstall the housing onto the block -- care is required fitting it to the block because the seal must be fitted over the crank "just so."
If you decide to remove the housing, be aware that two additional bolts secure it from underneath the pan lip, and also that it sits on two alignment pins. These can sometimes be a bit stubborn.
Regardless of whether you do it on the block or on the bench, consider these points:
Don't forget to prelubricate the sliding seal surfaces when you install them. That is, oil the lip that bears against the rotating shaft. Also lube the shaft. If you leave these surfaces dry, the seal will last about three seconds.
Make absolutely sure the seal lip doesn't roll outward during installation.
Also, examine the surface on the shaft. If it's badly worn, you can insert the seal 1/32" to 1/16" deeper in the housing so the lip bears against a new surface.
Though it's not required, I like to use a bit of Permatex gasket goo where the seal fits into the housing.
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