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"...turn the knob to turn on the headlights, the only lights that come on in the front are the yellow parking lights..."
That's normal when the key's off.
"...regardless if the car is running or if the key is set to the second position in the ignition..."
That's not normal, however.
"FYI, the bulb-out light doesn't acknowledge that my lights aren't on."
That sounds right. The sensor detects a mismatch in current between the right 'n left bulbs. In this case the current is matched at zero.
"...can engage my high beams if I pull the turn signal lever towards me..."
That sounds normal to me.
"...that indicator light doesn't come on, like it normally does. That's why I'm thinking perhaps something wasn't either plugged back in correctly or something is fried..."
Mmmmm..... Check the high beam indicator bulb on the outside chance that the mechanic bumped or dislodged it.
Your description of the voltage readings tracks with what you'd expect from various loads on the system. The reason you see the voltage drop is because the higher current causes a greater voltage drop across the resistance in the circuit (such as at the fuse clips). It's Ohm's law, and we must obey or suffer the current consequences. Sorry -- couldn't resist the potential in that one!)
Don't forget that your car has the headlight relay on the inside firewall, directly ahead of the brake pedal -- just above the kick panel. This is the relay that shuts off the headlights if the key's off. I wonder if it's involved in this problem?
Personally, I'd be all over your car with a schematic, test light, and DVM. I'm sure it's some simple, dumb thing.
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