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Just get it surfaced, trust me. It only cost me $50. The project is big enough that you'll want it to be right the first time (I did this whole project on my '84 a little while back). As someone else mentioned, it comes back really clean too, which is nice. The machine shop should also be able to tell how well the valves are seating. As for the extra seals, I bought the kit and have a bunch left over too. There are 8 small rubber pieces with an undercut on the side and an conical flange on one end. These snap onto the top of the valve stem and act as a cushion between the valve stem and underside of the barrel. There are 4 similar sized round ones which I think have a metal clip around them too. These are the oil seals for the intake valves (none on the exhaust valves). These both require taking off the cam and barrels, and the oil seals require removing the valve springs as well. If you do this, you might as well lap the valves (cheap and easy to do yourself, something I missed which I now regret a lot) to make sure they seat properly. There is a gasket that goes between the exhaust manifold and down pipe. There are injector seals. There's at least one water pump seal too, where it meets the head. If its old, the water pump is something else you should think about doing while you're in there , being a lot easier to do with everthing out of the way. As for the other stuff in the kit, I haven't figured it all out yet either. Another thing to think about is the breather system, which on my '84 is next to impossible to do with the intake manifold in the way. I would replace all the breather system hoses, flame trap, and maybe the box too. With the exception of the breather box, all the other stuff is available at IPD for a reasonable cost. If you decide to pull out the valves, I figured out a cheap/tricky way to do it with common shop tools. There were a couple tricks I figured out in a few other places too.
Let me know how far you want to go. I'd be glad to share what I learned.
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