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Mark, Check out the info Below form (simon_eng99@hotmail.com)
Updated 05/26/00 (minor editing only)
FROM simon_eng99@hotmail.com
Volvo 200 and 700 series
Wiring Harness
Repair Instructions
Are you having problems with the notorious "deteriorating wiring harness"?
If you are handy, a DIY person, know the use of a soldering gun and budget minded, you can do it the inexpensive, yet professionally way. The nice thing about this method is that you can spread the workload over several hours/days/weekends/months without causing any inconvenience or difficulty in operating the car.
I have done it without buying an expensive OEM replacement harness on an '83 GL wagon (the 4 cylinder B23F engine) and also on my current '85 760 turbo wagon (4 cylinder B230FT engine). Both suffered from the same problem.
Tools required:
Soldering gun or iron (small or 40 Watt)
Solder (rosin type for electrical use)
Wire cutter
Supplies required:
Shrink wraps, assorted size
14 gauge wire (about 7 ft, exact length to be determined by you)
18 gauge wire (about 25 ft, exact length to be determined by you)
spade-type electrical connectors, female, with insulating protector (about 5)
Flexible plastic wiring protector or loom (3/4" size, available from RadioShack, hardware store, Home Depot, or electronic supplies)
The first thing to do is to inspect the wiring harness. I am referring to a 700 series Volvo. (For 200 series, it is very similar. Some comments for 200 series will be in parentheses.) Open the hood and look in the left (driver side) fender. (For 200, the connector is located at the firewall, passenger side.) There should be a gray plastic male/female connector. It has 6 terminals but actually has 5 wires. (The same with 200 series.) There is one heavy gauge wire and that is 14 gauge, and also four 18 gauge wires. Use a pair of scissors or wire cutter and cut open the black plastic wrapping in a direction towards the engine.
It is not easy. But if you cut it, inch by inch, you will eventually expose the five wires within. You may have to do a little pulling and pushing underneath the throttle area. Some owners prefer to remove the throttle to make the job a little easier. If you are not that experienced, you could create more problems by removing the throttle. I did it (in both incidences) without removing the throttle.
When the five wires are exposed, the insulation material may have signs of crumbling, deteriorating or disintegrating. Use black electrical tape to patch it up for the time being. (If not, you are lucky. No further work is necessary. Put a new protective plastic coil around the 5 wires and you are home free.) (Take a break or continue).
To measure the length of any wire, get a piece of string and use it to follow the path of any particular wire from the connector to the engine block. (Or the routing that you prefer). Then measure the length of the string with a tape measure. Repeat this with the other four wires. (In the case of 200 series, I routed the 5 wires from the connector along the firewall towards the driver side. Then went forward along the fender, passed the hood hinge, until about half way on the fender. Then I went down until I reached the engine support and up to the engine. It is a little longer in distance, but it looked better and neater.) Add up the total length. (Take a break or continue). Note: Volvo's harness was assembled in the factory environment and is longer than actually required.
For 700 series, the length of the heavier gauge wire should be about 5 ft and the length of the 4 thinner wires should be about 25 ft total. The actual length depends on the routing and individual preference. Consequently it will be different in different cases. It is always safer to add an additional 10-20% due to errors. Please note that the original harness goes in a loop at the area between the 3rd and 4th cylinder. That is because the wiring is longer than required.
Now, select one (1) wire at the gray connector. Cut it upstream of the connector. Yes. Eventually you will eliminate this connector. This was used at the time of assembly at the factory. For us, it is serving no purpose. If you want to be fancy, you can buy an equivalent connector (6 terminal, nylon) at Radio Shack. Pull this one wire out completely. Cut out a piece of wire (you own wire or my wire) with the same length. If it requires a female spade type connector at the engine end of the wire, this is a good time to replace it. It is better to use the one that comes with insulating protector. If not available, use some shrink wrap and do it yourself on an uninsulated one. Solder the new wire to the point where you cut it. Plug the other end, which has a spade shape female electrical connector, to the male connector of the sensor at the engine block. You have done one wire. (Take a break or continue)
Repeat the process for the other four wires. Again, do it one wire at a time. The nice thing about this process is that you can do the job over a period of time. There is no need to do everything all at once.
Warning: There is one wire that goes to the oil pressure switch located on the passenger (right) side of the engine block just in front of the oil filter. It is recommended that you use the higher rating teflon coated wire due to its constant contact with the engine block. Order your wire accordingly. This one is about 6 feet long. Alternatively, you can route it to the passenger side of the engine compartment and go to the sensor directly, instead of the factory way of routing under the front of the crankshaft cover. The oil pressure sensor is located on the right side of the engine anyway. This will avoid having the wire contacting the hot engine.
When you are done with the 5 wires, use a flexible wiring protector loom to wrap up the bundle.
For 700 series, the four (4) green fuel injection wires may have the same problem. These are the ones that start at the four fuel injectors and go to four (4) "ballasts" located at the left fender just behind the left head light. If the wires are bad, you need an additional 20 feet of 18 gauge. The heavier wire, also green, is a co-axial type (I believe 14 gauge) "similar" to those used in cable TV. The major difference is that it is an 14 gauge wire with the outside guarded by wire mesh for radio frequency protection. This wire is OK and do not need to be replaced. I am under the impression that this wire is the co-axial type used in DVD player to receiver, rather than the TV antenna. The difference is that the internal wire is made from a strand instead of a single wire. If you have to replace this wire, you could probably buy one from your local electronics store, but is is costly, about $20-$40 for 6-12 ft. I do not have actually experience in replacing this wire.
Finally, inspect the electrical plug for the automatic climate control vacuum pump, if your car is equipped with one. This is a three terminal plug and is located at the left fender. Please do not confuse it with the cruise control vacuum pump, which is located below the master cylinder. The wiring near the plug may have similar problem.
Many owners have done it this way. If you use some surplus wires that you already have at home, you won't even have to spend any money. Just follow the instructions provided. The reality is, any ordinary vinyl insulated wires will do the job, for a couple of years. But if you love your car, use the best wires you can get. The cost is still affordable. I came across a supply of quality wires that can be used to fix the "disintegrating wiring harness" problem.
I am not in the business of selling Volvo parts. I am just another Volvo owner like yourself. I owned 4 Volvos before and now I am driving an 85 760 turbo wagon with very low mileage. I am merely trying to provide a service to fellow owners who do not want to spend a few hundred dollars for an OEM replacement wiring harness.
To assist those owners who do not have access to high quality wires, I am making the following wires by mail:
Teflon insulated 14 gauge electrical wire. This wire goes to the starter. Black color with red stripes. Available in this pattern only. 250 degree Centigrade (482 deg. F), 300 V rating. 70 cents per foot. No minimum in your order.
Silicone insulated 18 gauge electrical wire. Beige color. 200 degree Centigrade (392 deg. F), 300 V rating. 30 cents per foot. No minimum in your order.
An alternate to "B." Vinyl insulated 18 gauge electrical wire. 105 degree Centigrade (220 degree F.), 300 V rating. 20 cents per foot. No minimum.
Shipping is $4 per order. ($3 for order less than $10)
If you prefer, I can deal through eBay. However, I am not very active at that site.
These wires (A & B) have much higher temperature rating than OEM and are made of a more durable material and are difficult to get from retailers such as Radio Shack or Home Depot.
The bottom line is:
Cost: about $20-$30 depending on the extent of the repair. If you use your own wires, then there is no cash outlay.
Time: can be done over several weekends. It is not necessary to finish the job in one day.
Satisfaction: you know you have beaten the "system."
Drawback: it is not as neat looking as OEM
Do me a favor. After you have finished the job, let me know how it come out.
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