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My $.02 worth: bite the bullet! My '86 wagon (740 GLE) w/ 215k+ miles, just got new rotors, replacing the ORIGINAL ones. Yuk! Rusty, warped a little, and that many miles...for +/- $100 each; you also get new bearings, packing grease, cotter pin, etc. Vive la difference. No more wobble at highway 'passing' speed, no more shimmy when braking. Why, I might keep ole Brunhilde (champagne blonde paint!) for ANOTHER 200k+ miles. She is smooth as a ....well, let's just say it was worth it. If you DIY, shouldn't take more than an hour; if you've never done/don't know how, it is not difficult, but as in so many things mechanical, each sequential step is very important. For the longevity of your new bearings, you should use a device that looks like the bottom half of a peanut butter jar packed w/bearing grease, into which you put your new bearings, add a 'pusher' to submerge the bearing into the grease, then place the whole thing into a vise in order to force the maximum possible amount of grease into every nook and cranny of the bearings (one large, one small per wheel). I am sure that there is an archive for this, and/or someone here will be glad to add to my basic info. Making sure that you correctly install the cotter pin is what a helicopter mechanic would call the equivalent of making sure that you have your (no disrespect/blasphemy intended, this is a quote from people who knew) "Jesus nut" in place, the nut at the top of a chopper's blades, that keeps the blades from flying off: that "J-nut" was then cotter-pinned AND wired into place; if not, and the nut/blade came off...well, you would see HIM real soon! That cotter pin on your wheel nut keeps YOU on this earth. For some reason,the new rotors did not come with a new wheel nut, so we re-used my old ones. Each rotor came w/a tube of grease: use it all, there's plenty. After everything is assembled, back in place, pack your new hub/dust cover w/grease, bang 'er on --evenly--and enjoy your 'new' ride. Miles o' smiles. ---PD
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