The message to which you are about to reply is shown first. GO TO REPLY FORM



 VIEW    REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

You don't need to remove the strut. 700 1989

posted by  someone claiming to be JohnB on  Wed Nov 7 01:23 CST 2001 [RELATED]

Quickest way is with a pickle fork ($4-6 USD at TrakAuto or somesuch) but it destroys the rubber boot generally...not a prob in your case...to separate the spindle (bearing carrier?) from the strut..gives you a little more room to get at the two torque-to-yield bolts that hold the ball joint to the strut.

A new balljoint should have two new bolts with it. I generally use belt and suspenders technique when putting these in...blue (not red hi torque) loctite, initial torque to spec and then angle torque to spec.

Then put on the knuckle nut and torque to spec with crowfoot wrench or use long box wrench and 'real' tight!





USERNAME
Use "claim to be" below if you don't want to log in.
PASSWORD
I don't have an account. Sign me up.
CLAIM TO BE
Use only if you don't want to login (post anonymously).
ENTER CAPTCHA CODE
This is required for posting anonymously.
OPTIONS notify by email
Available only to user accounts.
SUBJECT
MODEL/YEAR
MESSAGE

DICTIONARY
LABEL(S) +
IMAGE URL *
[IMAGE LIBRARY (UPLOAD/SELECT)]

* = Field is optional.

+ = Enter space delimited labels for this post. An example entry: 240 muffler


©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2022. All material except where indicated.


All participants agree to these terms.

Brickboard.com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo, Volvo Car Corporation, Volvo Cars of North America, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. Brickboard.com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site, similar to a club, and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found here.