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Guys,
Thanx very much for all the responses. In particular, that there *aren't* any diagnostic codes on this model. Explains why I couldn't find them. A guy in the office who is usually pretty savvy on this stuff insisted there were.
I've already gone through some of the basics:
Air hoses look OK, but I'll check again.
Already replaced spark wires, distributor cap and rotor.
Haven't checked fuel pressure yet, but the main pump runs and an ohmmeter indicates the tank pump is OK.
I'm pretty sure the harmonic pulley is OK. I had this puppy off a little while ago and the dog on the crank timing gear was intact. I confirmed TDC by putting a screwdriver into #1 spark plug hole. And I pulled off the upper timing belt cover to confirm camshaft timing. The timing reference on the back cover is pretty subtle - it's about 90 degrees up *relative to the plane of the cylinder head*, right? Timing belt tension is OK.
Given that the timing mark on the pulley is OK, a timing light clearly indicates the spark is retarded about 40 degrees. It's nice and steady, just wrong. Early on in the diagnosis, I tried running the engine for a while thinking the plugs were fouled and I could just clean it out. When the exhaust manifold started to glow red I decided this was not a good idea. (That also confirms retarded timing.)
Hall sensor and/or wiring sounds like a leading candidate so far. The problem feels electrical. The car was running great right up to when it was shut off the night before, and then wouldn't start the next morning. Thanx also for the tip about the AMM. I didn't realize the car would run at all if you unplugged it.
More experiments lie ahead...
Thanx - Andy
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