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It's really easy if you have a 5/8 universal socket preverably a 1/2" drive.

Support frontend on jack stands. Loosen the upper aframe bolts and slide the shims in. You will need the universal to clear the upper a frame. if you put a jack under the lower a frame and raise it a little then you have a little more clearance to loosen the camber bolts. They are quite standard and any manufacture shims will work as long as they clear the a-arm bolt. I like the ones with a little tab and a hole in the top. This way you can measure and test several different setups (for different race tracks or different tires / setups ) and catalog them in your kit. Then just exchange one set of shims - tied together with a small piece of wire through the hole in the tab. Generally put the same amount of shims in the front and rear A arm bolts. Different settings will change the caster.

Just adding Neg camber with out measuring tire temperatures will not tell you much. After a session on the track or at the autocross quickly measure the tire temps across the surface of the tires from Inner to outer. They should be nearly the same temp across the tire. If the outside is hotter then you need more (negative) camber. If the inside is hotter the you have too much (neg) camber. You take the measurements with a tire temp Pyrometer or a tempeture probe with a Digital Volt Meter. The actualy temp is not too important. You are interested in the difference across the tire. If the temps are equal them the whole tire is helping turn the car.

Also driving style can change the necesary camber settings. If you plow these heavy cars through the turns you will heat up the outside tire faster than if you turn while braking (induced oversteer) and pivot the car in a tighter corner. This is well explanined in "secrest of solo racing" (red cover - can't remember the author.

If you want more Info - Email me

Happy tire wear !

scott