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The auxiliary air (slider) valves are known for giving idle and stalling problems. It's the weird looking thingy with two rubber hoses and an electrical connector on the end of a stem.
Start by removing it and giving it a good cleaning with carb cleaner or Varsol. You should be able to open and close the shutter fairly easily. At room temperature, looking through the hole the valve should be slightly open (crescent moon). Heat it up (hot water will do) and check that it closes all the way. Chill it (pop it in the freezer) and the valve should fully open. Do a continuity check across the two electrical contacts to make sure the little heater coil inside hasn't fried.
If that doesn't help then there's a small adjusting nut on the back side. Loosen it and slide it over to open the valve more. This will raise your cold idle. If your cold idle goes much above 1300rpm then adjust it down a bit. You may also have to tweak your warm idle a bit to keep everything in balance.
If none of this works then you may need a replacement. If you get a used one either check it out or make sure you can take it back if it's a dud.
Other common auxiliary air valve problems are the thermal time switch (on the block) and on some engines the fuel pump relay (believe it or not). Don would have you try re-soldering the relay just on spec. You need to chase these down with a meter.
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