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FIrst check your ball joints and outer tie rod ends. You will need to use a giant pair of slip-joint pliers as the joints are spring loaded for wear, and even though badly worn, they will not feel loose when wiggled by hand. Squeeze the joint together - if you see anything approaching 1/8" of axial joint play, the ball joint is toast and due for replacement.
Then check the inner tie rod ends - grab rack boots and have someone try to turn front wheels toward and away from each other - if you can feel any discernable movement in the joint under the boot, it is time for new tie rods. If tie rods are due and the boosts are questonable, or if there is any leakage from the rack, you should consider rack replacement.
Try swapping front and rear tires - sometimes a worn tire or a tread anomoly can cause braking problems.
Check front wheel bearings for any looseness. Depending on year, the 700 front wheel bearings may need to be preloaded (adjustment procedure is different from the ones for the 240s).
Check upper strut bearings - need to drop strut to check properly, however, if you jack car and disconnect the outer tie rod from the steering knuckle, then turn strut, you gan get a pretty good idea of the condition of the bearings - should feel snug and smooth - no grating or hitches when turning strut through full range.
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