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Re: brake pedal travel 200 1980



Above and beyond the typical brake bleed sequence, I offer the following advice (having just lived this through this drama):

1) Bench bleed the M/C.

2) Use an Ezibleed type pressure bleeder.

3) Lift the rear of the car higher than the front and leave it that way

overnight. I parked mine on car ramps.

4) Bleed the brakes using the proper sequence (having the car on the

ramps makes this a breeze for the rear at least).

5) Tap the calipers with a plastic or rubber mallet all over while the

bleeder is open (this can be very effective with new calipers).

5) Go around twice at least.

6) Close the system.

Is the pedal hard?

If not, continue with the following PITA procedure (suggested to me by the Bendix technical support line, and which worked for me):

1) In the proper order, remove the caliper from it's mount without

pushing the pistons in.

2) Leaving the pads in (and assuming they are new and/or have lots of

material left on them) push the pedal until the pistons compress the

pads (or use a block of wood, anything to keep the pistons from

popping out of their bores).

3) Bleed while holding the caliper with the bleed nipple

pointing up. I rotated the caliper in various positions while doing

this.

4) Close the bleeder.

5) Push the pistons back only far enough to get the pads back in and

around the rotor.

6) Mount the caliper.

Doing the first part of all this got alot more air out of the system when I replaced most of my system. Doing this last part probably helped, I would say, about 20% more with regards to stiff pedal.







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